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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 9, 2017 8:57:08 GMT
As we gone past the convince me to buy it stage as I have bought pcars 2 time for a new thread.
I have been playing demo for a week or so and thoroughly enjoying it, so downloaded full game and oh dear the ffb for the fanatec wheels is not good . It is not the same as the demo and we get no feedback from surfaces road/grass/gravel/kerbs .
You can drive round a rod circuit ok but forget rally cross as you get nothing
At moment glad I only spent 25
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 9, 2017 10:40:36 GMT
That was how I found it too inthebagbud as my post in the other thread indicated. I have now got it to feel much better in terms of road feel but I'm not there on the feeling of grip loss, etc. It's almost like you have to compromise one for the other rather than being able to get the best of both worlds. Its still very rough feeling for me as well, very lumpy or jerky and I think that's why the more subtle feedback gets somewhat lost. There's plenty more to tweak yet to try to find that sweet spot so I'm still hopefull that's it's hidden there somewhere. The settings have to be different per car too as I took the Indycar out at the Glen this morning and the FFB was very weak in comparison to in the Ferrari GT3 yesterday where it was overly strong. So you'll need to keep a record of settings per car. They should have at least given the option to save presets for each car to save changing them each time. I don't think that's in the game but maybe I've missed it so will check next time. Strange your feeling is so different between the demo and full game as the demo was inclusive of the patch I thought. You sure you've updated the game with patch 3? For me it has improved somewhat with that although I don't think it's mentioned as being changed in the notes.
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 9, 2017 13:45:23 GMT
XRF HammerPH yes it's dissapointing that the ffb is not same as demo as that made be take the plunge. Think it may have something to do with this from patch notes Fanatec CSWB v2 – various adjustments and improvements on XB1. Fanatec - improved anti-jolt and high-frequency anti-vibe on the CSWB series. which has not given the desired effect. As you have to wheel you use the gain function to increase/decrease overall effect and tone is the slip/understeer setting with the conscencous that lower goes best results , but with lower you have to balance this with gain. When I used the demo and forgot to turn assists off I could actually feel the abs kicking on and off. I must say the motorsport preset events are very good and let's people like me who like racing but may not know track/car combos get stuck straight in. Oh and the biggest smile was starting a touring car race and the car in front was my son who had his name put in as a wmd member - suffice to say he didn't stay in front for too long
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 9, 2017 22:40:08 GMT
Tone also effects the road surface feel as well from what I remember of the descriptions. That's why it's quite difficult to get them both exactly how you want because they are bound up in a single slider. In the GT3 I was driving Friday I had to have the gain turned down quite a lot from what they had it on default but when I jumped in the Indycar it was too low so I had to dial it up again. Which of the flavours are you using inthebagbud. I'm on RAW at the moment. I used one of the race pre-sets for the first time this morning but I'm not quite sure how they've been set up overall. I'll have to investigate further. I usually like to have total freedom in my race selections but providing these don't handicap that option then they could be useful.
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 10, 2017 7:43:39 GMT
XRF HammerPH haven't read this fully but a tx wheel thread for you linkI run raw but have used informative when the car was a bit weak like the gt3. Note infomative and immerive auto,adjust themselves over a couple of laps so make sure yu run long enough Raw does not auto adjust
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 10, 2017 9:31:35 GMT
Cheers inthebagbud I'll have a proper read of that thread. I'll try them at default again add maybe it's changed since the patch but I ran them for a fair few laps when I first played the game. GT3 was way over-powered on default for me I had to turn it down to 40. Nice story on your son... how old is he and how comes he doesn't frequent his old man's playground here lol
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 10, 2017 20:08:00 GMT
Just convinced myself Merc touring car round Knockill absolutely brilliant and the stable,setup gets you up and running straight away going to have tune that little beauty
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 10, 2017 22:21:16 GMT
How were the AI and what level did you have them at? I thought they were pretty good in my GT3 race the other day but in the Indycar they are like a bunch of angry hornets and a bit of a liability. It seems that the higher you set them the less intelligent they become lol. I'll play around with the aggression level as that may need to be lower in that class of car. Maybe open wheelers in general.
Have to admit that driving the Indycar Chevrolet around Long Beach today was the most I've felt like an Indycar driver since my PC Indycar sim days. Something about that track that is just Indycar through and through 👍
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Post by y22rydr on Dec 11, 2017 21:40:05 GMT
I have found that the stable setups are good out of the box. A change in tire compound, a tweak in tire pressure, maybe some brake bias, and fuel load is all it takes to dial the cars in so far... It does not take much, if any, in the way of tuning to have a driveable car.
I can't remember which one of the FFB flavors I chose, but my wheel decided to jerk violently. I am sticking with RAW. I will post my settings later (TX 458).
Another setting (not contained in the FFB page) which affects the FFB feel is caster. You may want to use that for some further tweaking. Also mapping tone and volume to a button might be the way to go so you can adjust on the fly.
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 11, 2017 22:58:32 GMT
Cheers for the tips. When you say map the Tone and Volume to buttons how does that work exactly? Does the button increment the setting in single steps? That being the case do you need to map 2 buttons... one to increase and another to decrease? I'm not able to check myself today so just curious.
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 12, 2017 7:29:52 GMT
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 12, 2017 7:34:05 GMT
I have found that the stable setups are good out of the box. A change in tire compound, a tweak in tire pressure, maybe some brake bias, and fuel load is all it takes to dial the cars in so far... It does not take much, if any, in the way of tuning to have a driveable car. I can't remember which one of the FFB flavors I chose, but my wheel decided to jerk violently. I am sticking with RAW. I will post my settings later (TX 458). Another setting (not contained in the FFB page) which affects the FFB feel is caster. You may want to use that for some further tweaking. Also mapping tone and volume to a button might be the way to go so you can adjust on the fly. y22rydr I have to agree on the setups in that they are pretty much good to go but the section with differentials is very hard to understand and seems to be filled with words and options that make it overly complicated. I do find tyre temps are an issue on the limited cars I have driven and I understand this time round the goal is achieving correct pressure rather than focusing on temps - but I have found that some just will not get hot I am in early days so not fully conversant yet
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 12, 2017 10:10:24 GMT
Cheers bud, I am reading that thread as we speak. Definitely would need something additional to my wheel as the TX does not have enough buttons to accommodate all the extra things that could be mapped. I do have a small wireless keyboard but it's more for using to send messages and probably the keys are a bit too small for use as extra buttons for the game but i'll test it out. That one of yours looks pretty good though so if mine doesn't work I might well pick that up when I have some cash post Christmas. Actually I just remembered I have a gift card with some money left on it and it's got exactly 18 quid available .
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Post by y22rydr on Dec 12, 2017 21:13:06 GMT
y22rydr I have to agree on the setups in that they are pretty much good to go but the section with differentials is very hard to understand and seems to be filled with words and options that make it overly complicated. I do find tyre temps are an issue on the limited cars I have driven and I understand this time round the goal is achieving correct pressure rather than focusing on temps - but I have found that some just will not get hot I am in early days so not fully conversant yet Differentials: I have found this post in the forums helpful Tyre pressure: Try this one for baseline settings Tire compound choice based on temperatures here. The last one resulted in making an excel spreadsheet which highlights the recommended tire compound based on ambient and track temperatures. I can send your way if you desire.
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 12, 2017 21:37:47 GMT
y22rydr I have to agree on the setups in that they are pretty much good to go but the section with differentials is very hard to understand and seems to be filled with words and options that make it overly complicated. I do find tyre temps are an issue on the limited cars I have driven and I understand this time round the goal is achieving correct pressure rather than focusing on temps - but I have found that some just will not get hot I am in early days so not fully conversant yet Differentials: I have found this post in the forums helpful Tyre pressure: Try this one for baseline settings Tire compound choice based on temperatures here. The last one resulted in making an excel spreadsheet which highlights the recommended tire compound based on ambient and track temperatures. I can send your way if you desire. y22rydr thanks for telling info . I had the first 2 on my radar for reading and then trying to distill the info into a quick checksheet is going to be a task in its self ! I would appreciate the spreadsheet as I was just starting to put the tyre temp from Casey into a sheet myself Think I may open a pcars2 resources thread here so we can post stuff like this
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Post by y22rydr on Dec 12, 2017 21:51:52 GMT
Here is the spreadsheet for your use. The top has two cells, one for ambient temp, the other for track temp. It is protected, but not with a password. Just makes it easier for me to tab through the cells I want to use. Also there is a camber/pressure analysis under the temp selector. That part is still a work in process, I have carried it over from its original use when chasing tire temps. The camber analysis portion is still valid. Project Cars 2 tires.xlsm (31.86 KB)
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Post by inthebagbud on Dec 13, 2017 14:10:27 GMT
Here is the spreadsheet for your use. The top has two cells, one for ambient temp, the other for track temp. It is protected, but not with a password. Just makes it easier for me to tab through the cells I want to use. Also there is a camber/pressure analysis under the temp selector. That part is still a work in process, I have carried it over from its original use when chasing tire temps. The camber analysis portion is still valid. View AttachmentAmazing thanks - my grey cells just dont work like that - its like reading a Jussi post; i start to get that glazed look and wonder what the hell he is talking about - sometimes better not to understand just get on with it
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 14, 2017 0:38:44 GMT
I tried out the Indycar at Indianapolis last night and have to say the FFB was a major disappointment for the most part and highlighted more frustrating and annoying design decisions from SMS.
I actually thought the lost FFB bug had hit again but then I realised that it wasn't lost but was just really weak. Virtually no FFB even if going over the grass, no forces at work on the wheel when going at 200+mph through the turns and zero wheel weight either. I changed to the various flavours but felt no difference whatsoever and then played around with the settings and ended up maxing everything out but still it was very weak. I pretty much gave up at that point and then started testing out the button mapping with my little wireless keyboard and mapped Tone and Volume to it. It seemed to work but was a bit intermittent although i know the keyboard batteries needed charging so will put it down to that. I was disappointed to find that you get no visual indication of the change like you do when changing brake bias for instance so have no idea whether it's worked or what you've changed it to unless you pause and go back to the menu to check which kind of defeats the object really.
At that point after fiddling with the button mapping suddenly there was heavy wheel weight and improved FFB which I then had to turn down. It seems the inconsistency of how the FFB works is worse than the first game.
As for the frustrating design decision what I'm referring to is that when you adjust the individual sliders within the flavours it charges them for all flavours rather than individually.. WTF who comes up with these ideas!!!
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Post by y22rydr on Dec 14, 2017 2:39:27 GMT
You can also see the FFB changes when you have the telemetry HUD up (bottom left).
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Post by XRF HammerPH on Dec 14, 2017 10:22:39 GMT
You can also see the FFB changes when you have the telemetry HUD up (bottom left). Thanks for that information. that's good to know. I have not yet started looking at setups so have not used the telemetry screen so far.
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